Engineered wood is real wood flooring, built in layers. Here is what is inside a board, why it is made that way, and how it compares with solid wood, laminate and vinyl.
Short answer: Engineered wood flooring is a real wood floor made in layers: a top layer of solid hardwood, usually oak 3–6mm thick, bonded to a core of cross-laid birch plywood. Because each sheet of the core runs at right angles to the next, the board moves far less than solid wood as the air dries out and dampens, so it can be laid over concrete, screed and underfloor heating. Once fitted it looks and feels like solid wood, and the top layer can be sanded and refinished. Updated October 2026 by the LIGNORA flooring team
Every engineered board has the same parts. The top is what you see; the core underneath is what keeps it flat.
A layer of solid sawn oak, the same timber you would find in a solid board, only thinner. Its thickness sets how many times the floor can be sanded over its life.
Thin sheets of birch plywood glued together with the grain of each sheet crossing the one below. Each layer holds the others still, so the board barely swells or shrinks across its width.
Hardwax oil, UV oil or lacquer, often over a brushed, smoked or hand-scraped surface. Compare them in oiled vs lacquered oak.
Engineered flooring exists to solve one problem: wood moves.
A solid oak board takes on moisture and swells across its width in damp weather, then shrinks back as the heating dries the air. The wider the board, the more it moves. Over a concrete slab, in a centrally heated flat or above underfloor heating, that movement shows up as gaps between boards, cupping and creaks.
An engineered board keeps the oak where it shows, on top, and builds the rest from cross-laid plywood. The sheets pull against each other and cancel out most of the movement, so a 220mm or 260mm plank stays flat where a solid board of the same width would gap. That stability is what lets engineered wood go where solid wood struggles: glued straight to screed, floated over an acoustic underlay in a flat, or laid over underfloor heating.
It also makes better use of slow-grown oak. A solid board is oak all the way through; an engineered board uses a few millimetres of it for the same surface, which helps keep wide, long boards practical.
How it measures up against the floors it is usually weighed against.
| Compared | Engineered wood | Solid wood | Laminate | Vinyl and LVT |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Surface | Solid hardwood, 3–6mm thick | Solid hardwood, full thickness | A printed image of wood | A printed vinyl layer |
| Core | Cross-laid birch plywood | The same solid timber | High-density fibreboard | PVC |
| Sanding | Yes: two or three times on a 3mm layer, more on thicker | Yes, many times | No | No |
| Over concrete | Glued down or floated | Needs a timber subfloor | Floated | Glued or clicked |
| Underfloor heating | Yes | Not recommended | Yes | Yes |
| Realistic life | 25–40+ years | Generations | 5–10 years in high traffic | 8–15 years |
Swipe the table to see every floor →
The full comparisons: engineered vs solid wood, laminate vs real wood and LVT vs real wood.
Engineered wood suits most homes, but it is worth knowing both sides.
The wear layer is the number to check. Ours are sawn oak, 3mm to 6mm thick: a 3mm layer allows two or three full sands, a 4mm layer three or four, and a 5–6mm layer several more. See can engineered wood flooring be sanded?
Two numbers describe an engineered board: its total thickness and the oak on top.
A board listed as 14/3 is 14mm thick with a 3mm oak layer. The first number decides floor heights and how well the board suits underfloor heating; the second decides how long it lasts. Most of our floors are 14mm or 15mm, with 20mm boards for fixed floor heights and the longest life; our thickness guide explains how to choose.
Then come width, grade and finish. Boards run from 90mm herringbone blocks to 260mm planks. The grade, from clean prime grade to knotty rustic and antique oak, changes the look rather than the strength. The finish decides how the floor is looked after; see our finishes guide.
Not every engineered board uses the same core. Most of our oak floors are built on multi-ply birch; our British-made Douglas fir is a two-layer board, a 3.7mm fir wear layer bonded to 12mm hardwood plywood.
The layered construction is what makes engineered wood so adaptable.
Glued straight down once the screed is dry, or floated over an underlay. Solid wood cannot go directly onto concrete.
Every engineered floor we supply suits underfloor heating, and 14mm and 15mm boards let the heat through fastest. See wood flooring for underfloor heating.
20mm boards can be secret-nailed straight to joists; thinner boards go over a plywood deck, or float over existing boards that are sound and flat.
Floated over an acoustic underlay, or glued with an acoustic system, to meet the sound rules in most leases. See wood flooring for flats.
Lacquered or well-oiled engineered oak copes with everyday spills, as long as standing water is wiped up. See kitchen wood flooring.
Possible with the right board, finish and preparation, though never in a wet room. Read wood flooring in bathrooms and basement flooring.
Which fixing suits your room is covered in glue-down vs floating, and how our own fitters lay floors is on the installation page.
Written by the LIGNORA team. Our in-house fitters have over 11 years’ experience laying engineered oak, parquet and solid wood floors, and this guide reflects how we specify floors on real projects. Last reviewed October 2026.
A few engineered floors from the range, from 14mm oak planks to 20mm boards, walnut herringbone and two-layer Douglas fir. Each has its own page with the full specification and a free sample.






Tell us about the room, the subfloor and the heating, and we will recommend the right engineered board. Or order free samples and see the layers for yourself.
