Basement and cellar conversions can take a real wood floor — as long as moisture is dealt with first. Here is what needs to be in place.
Short answer: Yes, a basement can take a real wood floor once moisture is dealt with. Test the slab first, follow any tanking contractor's guidance, lay a damp-proof membrane and use engineered oak rather than solid. Glue-down with a moisture-tolerant adhesive or a floating floor over a membrane underlay are both used. Updated October 2026 by the LIGNORA flooring team
Every basement floor starts with a damp test.
Below ground, moisture can rise through concrete. Before any wood floor goes down, the slab or screed needs testing with a moisture meter, and the room needs to be dry, heated and ventilated. In a tanked or waterproofed basement, the waterproofing contractor's guidance comes first.
Engineered oak with a proper barrier.
Glued or floated.
Over a dry screed with a liquid DPM, a glued-down floor feels solid and suits underfloor heating. Where gluing is not practical, a floating floor over a membrane underlay is the alternative. See glue-down vs floating and our underlay guide.
Written by the LIGNORA team. Our in-house fitters have over 11 years’ experience laying engineered oak, parquet and solid wood floors, and this guide reflects how we specify floors on real projects. Last reviewed October 2026.
A few floors from the range. Each has its own page with the full specification, a spec sheet and a free sample posted to you.






Send us a photo of the room and tell us about the subfloor and heating, and we will recommend the right board. Or order free samples to see them at home.
